This guide will walk you through how to remove lead paint safely and smartly, without turning your weekend project into a hazmat situation.
So you’ve just found out your charming older home has lead paint. First: take a breath (through your nose, not a dusty respirator—yet).
Lead paint was standard in homes built before 1978, meaning millions of houses have it lurking beneath layers of lovingly applied wallpaper and well-intentioned renovation work. It’s generally safe when left undisturbed, but the moment it starts chipping, peeling, or getting sanded, lead dust becomes airborne, and that’s when it becomes a real health hazard, especially for kids under six.
If you’re planning a renovation or you’ve spotted damage, it’s time to address it.
First Things First: Do You Actually Have Lead Paint?
If your home was built before 1978, there’s a solid chance some of your paint contains lead. In fact, the older the house, the higher the likelihood.
Confirm it before you do anything else. DIY lead test kits are available at hardware stores for around $10–$30 and are great for spot-checking.
For a thorough assessment, hire a certified lead inspector: they’ll use an XRF analyzer to test without damaging surfaces and provide a full report on where lead paint is and its condition. When in doubt, test.
Know Your Options: Removal vs. Encapsulation vs. Enclosure
Full removal isn’t always the right call. Sometimes it’s riskier than leaving the paint alone. Here’s the quick breakdown:
Full Removal strips paint away entirely via chemical stripper, scraping, or sanding. Most permanent, but generates the most dust and debris. Best for damaged or high-friction surfaces.
Encapsulation applies a thick bonding coating over the paint to seal it in. Less invasive and often cheaper, but requires monitoring and isn’t right for surfaces already peeling or heavily damaged.
Enclosure covers the surface with new material—drywall over plaster, for example. A solid option, but document where the lead paint is for future owners and renovation crews.
Gather Your Gear Before You Start
Lead paint removal is not a grab-a-scraper-and-go situation. Have all of this on hand before you touch a single surface:
- An N-100 or P-100 respirator (not a paper dust mask—this is non-negotiable)
- Disposable coveralls and shoe covers
- Safety goggles
- Heavy-duty plastic sheeting (6 mil) for sealing off the work area
- Painter’s tape and duct tape
- HEPA vacuum (not a regular shop vac—lead dust passes right through standard filters)
- Wet mop and bucket
- Heavy-duty plastic bags for waste disposal
- TSP (trisodium phosphate) or a TSP substitute for cleanup
- Chemical paint stripper rated for lead paint removal (if using wet chemical method)
- Heat gun (if using heat method—keep it under 1100°F to avoid vaporizing lead)
If you’re hiring a contractor for renovation work in a pre-1978 home, federal law (the EPA’s RRP Rule) requires them to be certified in lead-safe work practices. Ask for certification before anyone swings a hammer.
How to Remove Lead Paint: Step-by-Step
Follow these steps carefully.
Lead-based paint removal is serious work, but with the right preparation and patience, it’s absolutely manageable as a DIY project, as long as the affected area is small (under 20 square feet on interior surfaces). For larger jobs, always call a certified lead abatement professional.
Test Before You Touch Anything
Use a lead test kit or hire a certified inspector to confirm the presence of lead and assess its condition.
Map out all areas where lead paint is present so you know exactly what you’re dealing with.
Never assume, always test.
Prepare and Seal the Work Area
Turn off your HVAC system to prevent dust from circulating throughout the house. Seal off doorways, vents, and windows in the work area with the heavy plastic sheeting and tape.
Lay additional plastic on the floor to catch debris. Remove or cover any furniture and belongings. Post a sign to keep children and pregnant women out of the area entirely.
Not just during work, but until cleanup is fully complete.
Suit Up—Every Single Time
Personal protective equipment is your best friend. Put on your disposable coveralls, shoe covers, safety goggles, and—crucially—your N-100 or P-100 respirator before you enter the sealed work area.
Never eat, drink, or remove your respirator while working. Treat the work area like a clean zone: what goes in doesn’t come out (especially lead dust).
Choose Your Removal Method and Work Wet
The golden rule of lead paint removal is: keep it wet.
Wet methods dramatically reduce airborne dust. For chemical stripping, apply your lead-safe stripper, let it dwell according to the product directions, then use a plastic scraper (not metal, which can gouge surfaces and create more debris) to lift the softened paint. Work the wet scraping in small sections, misting the surface frequently.
If using a heat gun, keep the temperature below 1100°F. If above that, lead vaporizes, becoming even more dangerous. Never use an open flame or torch. Avoid dry sanding entirely; if you must sand, use a HEPA-equipped power sander.
Contain Debris Immediately
As you work, collect loose paint chips and debris and place them directly into heavy-duty plastic bags. Seal each bag as you go, don’t let debris pile up in the work area. Double-bag everything. Keep a dedicated waste bag at the perimeter of your work zone and never carry unsealed debris through your living space.
HEPA Vacuum the Entire Area
Once the paint is removed, use your HEPA vacuum cleaner on every surface in the work area—walls, floors, windowsills, and any plastic sheeting before it’s removed. Vacuum in overlapping passes. A regular vacuum will not do; it blows lead particles right back into the air. HEPA filtration is mandatory.
Wet Mop and Clean Thoroughly
After vacuuming, wet mop all hard surfaces using a TSP or TSP-substitute solution—it’s highly effective at trapping residual lead dust. Change your mop water frequently (it will get dirty fast). Mop twice for good measure. Wipe down all surfaces with damp disposable rags.
Dispose of Waste Properly
Lead paint waste is considered a hazardous material.
Contact your local municipality or waste management service to find out how to dispose of it in your area. Many areas have specific drop-off locations or pickup schedules for hazardous household waste. Do not put lead paint debris in your regular trash or recycling.
Decontaminate Yourself Before Leaving
Before leaving the work area, remove your coveralls and shoe covers by rolling them inside out, and place them directly into a plastic bag. Remove your gloves last. Wash your hands and face thoroughly before eating, drinking, or touching anyone, especially children.
Shower and wash your hair before wearing your work clothes again.
Do a Final Clearance Test
For peace of mind (and for families with young children), consider having a certified inspector perform a clearance test after the work is done. They’ll use wipes or dust samples to verify that the space’s lead dust levels meet EPA safety standards. It’s an extra step, but it’s the only way to know for certain that your home is safe to reoccupy.
How to Remove Lead Paint Safely (Without Losing Your Mind—or Your Lungs)
Lead paint is common in homes built before 1978 and safe when undisturbed—but once it starts chipping or gets sanded, it becomes a serious health hazard. This how-to walks you through removing lead paint safely in small areas (under 20 sq ft of interior). For larger jobs, always hire a certified lead abatement professional.
Materials
- • N-100 or P-100 respirator (not a paper dust mask)
- • Disposable coveralls and shoe covers
- • Safety goggles
- • 6-mil plastic sheeting and painter's tape
- • HEPA vacuum
- • Wet mop and bucket
- • TSP or TSP substitute
- • Chemical paint stripper (lead-safe rated) and/or heat gun
- • Plastic scraper
- • Heavy-duty plastic bags for waste
Instructions
Test First
- Confirm lead is present with a DIY test kit ($10–$30) or a certified inspector before touching anything.
Seal the Work Area
- Turn off HVAC.
- Cover doorways, vents, windows, and floors with 6-mil plastic sheeting.
- Keep children and pregnant women out until clearance testing is done.
SuitUp
- Wear disposable coveralls, shoe covers, safety goggles, and an N-100 or P-100 respirator. No paper dust masks.
Work Wet
- Apply chemical stripper and lift softened paint with a plastic scraper.
- Mist surfaces frequently.
- If using a heat gun, stay under 1100°F. Never dry sand.
Bag Debris As You Go
- Place paint chips directly into heavy-duty plastic bags.
- Seal and double-bag as you work.
- Never carry open bags through your living space.
HEPA Vacuum Everything
- Vacuum all surfaces—walls, floors, windowsills, and plastic sheeting—with a HEPA vacuum before removing the sheeting.
Wet Mop Twice
- Mop all hard surfaces with a TSP or TSP-substitute solution.
- Change the mop water often.
- Wipe down surfaces with damp disposable rags.
Disposeof Waste Properly
- Lead paint debris is hazardous material. Contact your local municipality for drop-off locations or pickup. Do not put it in regular trash.
Decontaminate Yourself
- Roll coveralls inside out and bag them.
- Wash your hands and face before touching anything.
- Shower before wearing your clothes again.
Get a Clearance Test
- Have a certified inspector verify lead dust levels meet EPA standards before reoccupying the space—especially important for homes with young children.
A Few More Things Worth Knowing
When to Call a Pro: If lead paint covers more than 20 square feet of interior space, more than 10 square feet of exterior space, or if it’s on surfaces like windows, floors, or doors that see a lot of friction—hire a certified lead abatement contractor.
The EPA maintains a database of certified professionals at epa.gov. This is not a corner to cut.
Kids and Pregnant Women: If anyone in your household is pregnant or under six, they should leave the home during any lead paint work to avoid exposure—and not return until final clearance testing confirms the space is safe. Full stop.
Document Everything: Once lead paint is removed, keep records of where it was, what method was used, and what testing was done. Future buyers have a right to know, and it protects you legally.
Your older home has a lot of stories to tell, and now that you know how to remove lead paint safely, it can keep telling them for generations without putting anyone at risk. Take it step by step, follow the protocols, and don’t rush. Your home (and your family) will thank you.

Lead-Out Paint Stripper or Franmar’s paint stripper are the strippers I have used to remove lead paint. They work great. I haven’t talked to their customer service, but the product really works great.