It's that time of year again! The season to start thinking about our outdoor gardens and spaces! When we first moved into our home three years ago, the outdoor living space was...decent. But it wasn't quite our taste, and that made it a bit challenging to get over what we inherited and visualize an outdoor space that was meaningful to us.
But this year, we decided to take our first baby steps towards a more modern and clean outdoor space...
Now that summer is in full swing, I can't stop thinking about plants... and my indoor garden needs a bit of sprucing up. So I did a little Pinterest searching, and came up with tons of great DIY ideas to add some character to my succulents, cacti and other greenery. And today I'm sharing them with you. Find out how to dress up your plant babies with these ten gorgeous DIY planter ideas.
I was recently reading an article on how millennials are especially attracted to houseplants as it gives them something to care for since they can't really afford to care for anything else (the article is here if you're interested). As a millennial, you can count me in as slightly offended but also totally in agreement. My home is slowly being filled with all things leafy and green - I just can't help myself. With all these plants comes the need for somewhere to put them, so let's take to the walls with this DIY hanging fabric planter.
Have you ever tried to buy a contemporary planter box for your patio or porch? If you have, you probably know that it's difficult to find an attractive one at a reasonable price. So of course, I decided to make one out of wood and a piece of metal radiator cover for a geometric touch. Click through to check out the whole project!
It's a nice mix of plain and decorative, with just a touch of that geometric pattern on the front. So let's get started!
Here's what you'll need for your planter box:
Wood (see cut list below)
Radiator cover (1 foot square will be enough)
Drill with 1/2 inch bit (not pictured)
1/2 inch nails
Gray spray paint
(1) 10 x 10 inch piece of 1/2 inch thick wood
(2) 10 x 10 inch pieces of 1/4 inch thick wood
(1) 10 x 10 1/2 piece of 1/4 inch thick wood
(4) 13 inch tall pieces of 1 1/8 inch corner moulding
(2) 11 x 3/4 inch of 1/4 inch thick moulding
(2) 9 3/8 x 3/4 inch of 1/4 inch thick moulding
(4) 8 7/8 x 3/4 inch of 1/4 inch thick moulding
(4) 8 5/8 x 3/4 inch of 1/4 inch thick moulding
Begin by cutting all of your wood to the proper size, according to the cut list above. The 10 x 10 inch piece of 1/2 inch thick wood will act as the base for your planter, and everything will be attached to that. So begin by attaching one of the 10 x 10 inch pieces of 1/4 inch thick wood to the 10 x 10 inch piece with a small nail. Secure it by adding another nail in each corner.
Attach the other 10 x 10 inch piece of 1/4 inch thick wood to the opposite side of the 10 x 10 inch piece so together they create a U shape, and then attach the 10 x 10 1/2 piece of 1/4 inch thick wood to the backs of those pieces as shown above (the 1/2 inch thick base piece is closest to me in the photo, not visible).
Flip it upside down and create a few drainage holes in the base using a 1/2 drill bit (or similar).
Next, cut a piece of radiator cover that is 10 1/4 x 9 1/4 inches using a pair of tin snips.
Glue it to the edges of the base and two side pieces (opposite the 10 x 10 1/2 piece of 1/4 inch thick wood).
Let it dry and then glue the corner moulding pieces onto the corners as shown above, allowing the excess to be on the bottom. These will be the legs.
Once the corner moulding pieces are dry, flip the piece right side up and glue the rest of the moulding pieces into their proper places. The 11 x 3/4 inch of 1/4 inch thick moulding and 9 3/8 x 3/4 inch of 1/4 inch thick moulding go on the top, shown above.
The 8 7/8 x 3/4 inch of 1/4 inch thick moulding pieces go at the top and bottom of the radiator cover side as well as the top and bottom of the opposite side. And the 8 5/8 x 3/4 inch of 1/4 inch thick moulding pieces go on the remaining sides.
Sand down any rough edges once all the glue has dried, and use a bit of spackle if there are any gaps where there shouldn't be. Spray paint the entire piece in your desired color (I used gray to match the siding on our house), doing two to three thin coats.
And you're finished. It's surprisingly easy, actually!
It's a lovely accent piece for your porch or patio, and can be customized by using a different paint color or a different radiator cover pattern on the front.
Here's a quick weekend project that can turn an outdoor space into a private, leafy retreat. It uses beautiful, weather-resistant cedar wood, but avoids the cost of expensive cedar lumber. Instead, I bought more affordable cedar fence pickets, smoothed the rough surface, and created the same look for less! Then I finished off the whole project with a coat of SuperDeck® Exterior Oil-Based Transparent Stain. Here's how you can make one too.
SuperDeck® features premium DuckBack Technology, which penetrates bare wood, and provides excellent protection from sun and premature weathering. One coat of coverage with a transparent finish highlights the wood grain, has excellent water repellency, and contains mildew-inhibiting agents.
3 sheets of 18" x 24" clear acrylic (0.093" thickness)
Thickness planer (optional, but awesome). If you don't have one, you can use a belt or random orbit sander
Drill, table saw, miter saw
I started by planing all my cedar fence pickets down until they were smooth. This step is entirely optional, but it does result in a nice looking finished product. If you don't have a planer, see if you can borrow one from a friend, or from your local tool library. You can also rent one from home improvement stores. They're easy to use, and a lot of fun!
Alternatively, you can remove the rough surface with some 60 or 80 grit sandpaper and a belt or random-orbit sander.
Next, I cut all the dog-ears off the tops of the pickets, bringing them to 71 inches. Since I wanted a mod-ish slat pattern, I ripped three of my newly-made cedar boards into 4" and 2" widths, and one board into 2" strips. You should end up with:
- Six strips at 2" width (three 2" slats, and three 2" pieces for trimming the front)
- Three boards at 4" width
- Six boards at 6" width
- Three boards at 5" width (top and side trim pieces)
Now it's time to build the frame. Guess what? This thing is really simple! It's just a square, made out of cedar 2x4s! You'll need to cut your 2x4s to length:
- 2 at 68 inches (top/bottom)
- 2 at 56 1/2 inches (sides)
Now, build a square using the 71" pieces for the top and bottom, and the 56" pieces for the sides. Fasten everything using 2 1/2" decking screws, taking care to keep the angles as square as possible.
Here's what the frame looks like:
The wall will also need 'feet' to keep it upright. How you build these is up to you, and will depend a lot on where you plan on installing it (I attached mine to the side of our deck). But a simple way to do it is to cut 2' pieces from the leftover cedar 2x4s, and affix each to the bottom, perpendicular to the frame.
Now you'll need to create the hidden groove, which will hold the plexiglass shelves, giving the wall a 'floating' effect. On each of your 6" wide cedar slats, cut a 1/4" deep groove using your table saw blade, 1/2" from the edge of the board.
Stand the frame up, and begin putting the cedar slats on. The pattern is:
1. 6" wide piece in the front (with groove at the top/back)
2. 6" wide piece in the back (with groove at the bottom/front)
3. 4" wide piece in the back
4. 2" wide piece in the back
The second 6" wide slat needs to overlap the first one by 1". The groove on the top/back of the first 6" wide slat will line up with the groove on the one facing it. The third and fourth slats should be spaced 1/2" above each previous slat.
The slats are installed with galvanized nails (using a hammer, or a nail gun). You can also screw them in place with decking screws if you prefer.
You're almost done! Now it's time to trim out the frame and hide the joints. Using 5" wide cedar boards, trim the sides and top of the frame. Then, use 2" wide pieces of cedar, cut to 12" long, to cover the bits of the frame that still show on the front of the piece, between the slats. Make sure to measure the gaps for these trim pieces first - they may not have ended up at exactly 12".
Install all the trim with galvanized nails.
Although cedar is perfectly weather-resistant on its own, it will fade to a dull gray if left unstained. I wanted a sharper, richer look for this planter wall, so I decided to stain it using SuperDeck oil-based transparent stain. It has a penetrating, oil-based formula that enriches and protects the natural beauty of the wood. It's easy to apply! Just clean the wood off with a damp rag, and when it's dry, paint on the stain with a brush or roller (or both).
Cut the plexiglass shelves to width using a table saw. I tried scoring and snapping these and it just didn't work reliably. Ripping them on the table saw is fast and easy, but make sure to using eye protection, as the plastic shavings do tend to fly about.
Now, insert the shelves into the grooves, and add plants, candles, or whatever else you think looks good.
That's it! Take a look at how mine turned out:
If you loved this idea, please help us share it by pinning this image! Thanks!
This post was sponsored by Sherwin-Williams, makers of quality paint and wood stain products. All opinions are mine alone. Thanks for supporting the brands that help make Curbly possible.
I'm a plant lover through and through. Plants add visual interest to a space, and they clean the air too. So when I saw the Fryken baskets at IKEA, I knew I had to turn them into a hanging planter set. Not only does it look cool, but it also keeps the plants away from the curious nose of my mischievous dog. So read on find out how you can make your own hanging planter basket set.
The final product is a nice combination of rustic and contemporary, with the bright colored cord paired with the natural sea grass. And it's surprisingly easy to make! Let's get started.
Begin by painting the bottom of each basket. I mixed up a dark turquoise color, and painted on an angle so that the color would be visible from the side when the baskets were hanging.
Here's a look at the side of the basket. Feel free to use a piece of painters tape to help create a straight line. Let the baskets dry thoroughly.
Now it's time to connect the baskets using parachute cord. You can buy the cord on Amazon or at most craft stores (I bought mine at Michaels). You most likely won't be able to thread your cord through the embroidery needle, so you'll need to fashion a little loop out of wire. To do this, thread the wire through the needle, create a 1 inch opening and then twist the ends together as shown above.
Cut 6 pieces of parachute cord that are 12 inches long each. Thread one piece of cord through your wire loop and push the needle through the top of the largest basket, as shown above. If you have trouble getting the cord through, pull everything back out and use a flat head screwdriver to gently wiggle a small hole in that spot and then try threading it through again.
Once it comes through, pull one end all the way through and tie a knot at the end. Then pull the outside end back out so the knot is positioned on the inside of the basket. Do this for three of the pieces of cord, evenly spacing them around the top of the basket.
Next, use the same process to pull the top of one of the cords through the bottom of the medium sized basket. Tie a knot at the top of that cord. Do the same for the other two cords.
Now repeat the exact same process for the medium basket and attach it to the smallest basket. Adjust the knots slightly if the baskets aren't sitting flat.
Then cut three pieces of cord that are 15 inches long each, and attach those to the top of the smallest basket. Knot the three pieces together at the top as shown above, and hang it from a hook. Your planter set is finished!
You'll want to use plants that are already in plastic containers so you can take them out to water them... if the sea grass baskets get wet repeatedly, they may start to get a bit moldy. For the bottom basket, I used cuttings from another Pothos plant and put them in a plastic container that I found in my recycling bin. I did the same for the Jade plant in the middle, and the top one is an air plant - so no soil needed!
You can customize these to your liking, using colors that match your decor - or you might even consider using different colors for each section if you like a multi-color look.
You could fill the entire thing with air plants, for a lower maintenance option. Just don't forget to water them like I did last time! Spritz them thoroughly in the sink every week or two to keep them looking good.
If you try this project, feel free to share a link to it in the comments section below. Happy crafting everyone!
If I have the choice between placing a plant on a shelf or suspending that plant in the air, I'm going to suspend it. Save the precious shelf room! This beaded plant hanger is a cool and unique way to get those plants in the air!
Copper is getting its 15 minutes of fame right now. I see it everywhere. Actual copper items can be pricey, especially copper planters. This tutorial shares some great tips for getting a faux aged copper look to anything!
Hanging plants from the ceiling can be a great solution for those of us without a ton of space, but sometimes it can be difficult to find a stylish planter. Well search no more, because we've found a super chic one that you can make yourself.
I'd be lying if I said I wasn't completely obsessed with planters right now. My plant collection is slowly growing and, obviously, each one needs its own container! I have a few awaiting homes and I think these DIY wooden geometric planters may be the perfect solution.
Chances are, you've seen a Case Study planter before -- it's the quintessential modern planter that's been in magazines and stylish entryways since the end of WWII. Nowadays, though, it goes to the tune of $150 -- and up (way up) depending on the style and size. If you like the look but not the price, here's a DIY version you can make for a fraction of the cost.
Just when I thought I'd seen every possible mason jar craft, I stumbled across this sweet and simple idea!
Armed with some twine, Karla from Oh So Very Pretty turned ordinary mason jars into mini planters that are perfect for air plants -- or even for holding small office supplies, bathroom toiletries, etc. Check out her tutorial right here!
I am always hunting for cool planters but I rarely find one that I like and when I do, it's usually out of my price range. So when I found this DIY for a modern, minimal planter made of cement, I was pretty excited.