Eye Candy: 10 Genius Small Space Guest Bedroom Ideas

by Faith Provencher

A small guest bedroom nook with striped walls and gold accents.

Not everybody has the square footage in their home for a spacious guest bedroom. That doesn't mean you can't have one though, it just means that you have to get creative. Check out these ten genius guest bedroom solutions.   


Grown up bunk beds, and a striped bed nook hidden behind a curtain.

1. This idea will appeal to the young at heart... a set of bunk beds! You can have two guests for the footprint of one. [Photo: Love This Crazy Life]

2. Or try hiding a small bedroom nook behind a curtain. [Photo: The Lettered Cottage]

A bed nook with storage underneath, and a guest bed underneath a staircase.

3. This built-in small single bed does double duty, with drawers for storage underneath. [Photo: BHG

4. This person took advantage of the unused space underneath their stairs to create a comfy little hideaway for guests. [Photo: Via House]

A multi-purpose room with a small extra bed, and a bed with drawers underneath.

5. This narrow room with a dormered ceiling is just the right amount of space for an extra bed, and can be used as a library when guests aren't visiting. [Photo: Nuevo Estilo]

6. This high extra bed creates space for cabinets underneath. [Photo: Decoration Trend]

A trundle bed in the attic with pink throw pillows, and a blue and green office with an extra bed.

7. A trundle bed in an attic space can be a reading nook or a playroom when not in use. [Photo: News 163]

8. This room serves two functions - an office and a guest bedroom. [Photo: Publistorm]

A bed hidden behind a partial wall, and a bed nook with striped walls and gold accents.

9. A pretty wooden screen hides this bed from view. [Photo: The Brooklyn Home Company]

10. This small day bed was placed snugly against the wall to maximize space in the rest of the room. [Photo: HGTV]

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Curbly Original
The Curbly House: Designing Our Master Bedroom with Emily Henderson

by Alicia Lacy


The Curbly House: Designing Our Master Bedroom with Emily Henderson

Welcome to our master bedroom ... almost.

Two weeks ago we announced that Emily Henderson is coming to the Curbly House to make it beautiful. Just reading that last sentence makes me want to do a Shannon Miller floor routine circa 1992. The chance to work with Emily is amazing, and we feel like the luckiest home-owners on the block (I think we are)! You will not believe the cool things we have planned for the bedroom. Read on...

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Eye Candy: 6 Modern Red, White and Blue Rooms

by DIY Maven

Eye Candy: 6 Modern Red, White and Blue Rooms

Today in the U.S. we are celebrating Independence Day, or as my English brother-in-law might say, the day 'We were freed of them." But be that as it may, I thought I might take the opportunity to find some modern red, white and blue interiors, because, let's face it, oftentimes that particular color combination stirs up images of country. Not so for

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How To: Make a Hanging Daybed

by DIY Maven

How To: Make a Hanging Daybed

In a screened-in porch on a day bed. I can't imagine a more lovely place to spend a summer afternoon curled up with a good book. But, as of now, there is no screened-in porch in sight, so this how-to will have to be bookmarked for later reference. Unless, of course, I petition to put one

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Steal The Style: How to Make Your Bedroom Look Like an Upscale Boutique Hotel Suite

by DIY Maven

Steal The Style: How  to Make Your Bedroom Look Like an Upscale Boutique Hotel Suite
Oftentimes we forget to look for inspiration in public spaces. From lighting in a beautiful restaurant to floral arrangements in upscale ladies rooms, we can find ideas to make our interiors more welcoming and put-together, which is, of course, imperative to businesses that service the public. In this post we take a look at hotels. Specifically, boutique hotels of the shabby-chic variety. 

The first of our eclectic trio is from

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Curbly Original
Roundup: 5 Scary Basements Turned Dreamy Bedrooms

by DIY Maven

Roundup: 5 Scary Basements Turned Dreamy Bedrooms

We've all seen them. Scary unfinished basements and the dreaded dungeon basement bedrooms. No wonder they provoke nightmares. In this roundup we've found five basements and basement bedrooms that went from spooky to spectacular. 

First is this space that looked more like a box (coffin?) than bedroom. THAT is alotta wood. Melissa from I Still Love You is the genius behind its makeover. 

The after is nothing less than a resurrection.

This next transformation is a little hard to put into context without seeing the blueprint. For that, head on over to BHG. (Looks like it's a walkout.) Basically, the homeowners had 700 square feet of unused space that looked like many unfinished basements out there.

Before: Forgotten Square Footage

The entire space was finished and now includes this sweet bunk bed set up.

Room for Two

This bedroom before wasn't so scary, but it was purple. So purple it could have very well provoked nightmares. Candace Olson is the designer behind its gorgeous makeover. 

Crazy beautiful and not one drop of purple to be found after. Click here to see more pictures of its transformation.

Oh, those tiny basement windows. In a perfect world, they'd all be removed and replaced with an egress window. But the owners of this bedroom performed a little window magic without any construction.

Basement Bedroom Before & After, This is the guest room in the basement. I stuck with an Asian influence here because I had all of these things in storage but never thought about putting them together. The room is constantly changing., BORING BEFORE. Just moved in & had to work with what I owned at the time. Walls were that color when I moved in. , Bedrooms Design

They simply put two panels on either side of the bed to create the possibility of windows. 

Basement Bedroom Before & After, This is the guest room in the basement. I stuck with an Asian influence here because I had all of these things in storage but never thought about putting them together. The room is constantly changing., AFTER. Quilt from Marshalls, Art & lanterns Homegoods, sleigh bed from Macys. I had all the other stuff. , Bedrooms Design

This teen's bedroom had a lot going for it, but it was hidden by very dark brown walls, which made it feel like a dungeon when it really wasn't. 

Yes, there was a big, beautiful window hidden behind that raised bed! For more information and pictures about this amazing makeover, visit Tatertots and Jello.


For those of you wondering about building codes pertaining to basement bedrooms, check out this article on Bob Villa, in which access is discussed. 

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How to: Make a DIY Modern Headboard from One Sheet of Plywood

by Chris Gardner

How to: Make a DIY Modern Headboard from One Sheet of Plywood

This week, Curbly is excited to be teaming up with Storey Publishing to share original how-to projects from the newly released PlyDesign: 73 Distinct Projects in Plywood (and Other Sheet Goods) by Phillip Schmidt.

Groovy Headboard...as in lots of grooves, see? It was the express intention of the designers of this piece not to have a monolithic hulk of a headboard, so they decorated it with negative space. The grooves also highlight the edge strata of the plywood, adding depth and interest that change with your viewing angle. And if you really want to get groovy, you can install some hidden lighting in the back (letting the glow play through the slats or throwing bars of light onto the ceiling). At 60" wide, a sheet of Baltic birch is perfect for a queen-size bed; larger beds might call for a standard 4 x 8-foot panel running lengthwise. In any case, this is a job for good material with thin, even plies (and minimal voids, of course).


  • One 5 x 5-foot sheet ¾" Baltic birch plywood 
  • (26¼" x 60" min.)
  • Scrap materials for routing jig (see step 4)
  • Finish materials (as desired)
  • One 8-foot length 2 x 4 lumber 
  • Coarse-thread drywall screws or wood screws 
  • (length as needed)
  • Wood glue
  • 6d (2") finish nails
  • Wood putty or white glue


  • Circular saw with straightedge guide
  • Table saw (optional)
  • Jigsaw
  • Router with ½" straight bit
  • Wood file or sanding block
  • Sandpaper (up to 220 grit)
  • Level
  • Drill with:
  • Pilot bits
  • Counterbore bits
  • Nail set

1. Cut the panel to size.

As shown here, the headboard measures 60" wide and 26¼" tall. If you’re using a 5 x 5-foot panel with its edges in good shape, you need to make only one cut to size the piece. Make the cut with a circular saw and a straightedge guide (or a table saw) for a clean, straight edge.

For a bed size other than a queen, cut the panel to the desired dimensions. You can also make your headboard as tall as you like. And keep in mind that the groove sizing and layout are almost infinitely customizable.

2. Mark the grooves.

Lay out the grooves on the back face of the headboard panel, following the cutting diagram. The headboard shown here has 1"-wide grooves spaced ¾" apart. Again, you can adjust the dimensions or layout as desired. To prevent mistakes and to make sure the design is right for you, it’s a good idea to draw the entire groove pattern on the panel, then fill in each of the grooves with scribbled pencil lines. With repeating linear patterns like this, it’s easy to lose your bearings when making cuts. Taking the time to mark everything carefully can save you from a disastrous miscut.

created at: 11/27/2012

3. Rough-cut the grooves.

Precutting the grooves with a circular saw and jigsaw will save considerable wear on your router bit (and your patience). Working from the back face of the panel, cut the long edges of the grooves with a circular saw, staying about ?" inside the cutting lines. Stop each cut about 1" or so from the end of the marked groove.

With both long edges cut on all of the grooves, finish the rough cutouts with a jigsaw. Keep in mind that the router, when making the final cuts, will round over the corners of the grooves with a ¼" radius (if you’re using a ½" bit). Therefore, keep the saw cuts about ½" from the groove ends; the router will clean up the rest.

Note: Cutting the grooves with a circular saw requires plunge cuts — lowering the spinning blade into the work by pivoting on the front edge of the saw’s foot. If you’re not familiar or comfortable with this operation, you can drill a ?" starter hole inside each marked groove and insert the jigsaw blade into the hole to initiate the cut. With this method, you will rough-cut the groove entirely with the jigsaw.

When using either saw, be very careful to prevent tearout (splintering) on the faces of the panel, especially the front face. Use sharp blades, and take your time. Even the router can cause splintering if it’s not sharp.


created at: 11/27/2012

4. Build the router jig.

A simple shop-made jig makes the routing process easy and relatively foolproof; see the illustration of the router jig setup. You can cut the jig base from any flat sheet material, preferably something thin, like hardboard or thin MDF, and use straight scraps of plywood, solid stock, or old trim for the guide (fence) pieces.

The jig base is a rectangle that’s about 32" long and at least 10" wide. Mark a straight reference line across the base, 3" from (and parallel to) one long edge. Cut two fence pieces to length at about 30". Glue or fasten one of the fence pieces to the base, aligned with the outside of your reference line.

Set up a router with a ½" straight bit. Using the router to guide the spacing, secure the other long fence piece to the jig base so the two fences are perfectly parallel and the router, when floating between them, will cut a 1"-wide groove. Cut two short fence pieces to fit between the long fences. Secure these to the base to serve as end stops for the router so the groove will be 24½" long.

Clamp the jig over a sacrificial surface, then carefully cut through the base with the router and ½" bit, with the fences guiding the router. The finished cutout will match the final grooves cut into the headboard.


5. Rout the grooves.

Prop the headboard panel back side up on scrap material (or you can use a sacrificial backerboard if it will help prevent tearout), and clamp the jig to the board so its cutout edges are aligned with one of the groove’s cutting lines. Clean up the groove’s edges with the router and ½" bit, making several passes and increasing the bit depth about ?" with each pass. Repeat to rout the remaining grooves. Again, watch carefully for tearout as you work.

Note: Once you’ve cut the first few grooves, you’ll need a relatively narrow C-clamp to secure the inside end of the jig, as shown in illustration of the router jig setup. The clamp fits through the adjacent groove to secure the jig.


6. Finish the headboard.

Mark the ¼" roundovers on the corners of the headboard, as shown in the cutting diagram; tracing around a 9 mm or 11/32" socket makes this easy. Shape the corners by sanding them with a file and/or coarse sandpaper and a sanding block.

Finish-sand the entire headboard, working up to 220-grit or finer sandpaper. Carefully sand the outside edges of the panel and all the grooves’ edges to smooth the sharp corners and prevent any splintering, while maintaining crisp edges with minimal rounding. Finish the headboard as desired. The piece as shown was finished with paste wax. Another good finish option is a penetrating oil, such as Danish oil, that doesn’t require sanding between coats. This is not a fun project to sand.


7. Prepare the mounting cleats.

The headboard shown here was mounted to a wall so that it reclines at a 5-degree angle; see the side-view illustration. This slight slope softens the look just a bit, and it makes the headboard more comfortable as a backrest for sitting up in bed. You can slope your headboard as much or as little as you like, or you can position it vertically.

To create mounting cleats for the sloped installation, cut two lengths of 2 x 4 at about 46". Bevel one short edge of one of the pieces at 5 degrees so the longer side is about 3" wide, using a circular saw with the blade (foot) tilted at 5 degrees.

Bevel the other piece of 2 x 4 at 5 degrees so its narrow side is about ½" wide. This is the upper mounting cleat.


created at: 11/27/2012

8. Install the headboard.

Determine the desired location of the headboard. Mark a level line on the wall to represent the top edge of the upper mounting cleat; the cleat should be roughly centered on the 3" solid space at the top of the headboard. Drill pilot holes, and mount the upper cleat to the wall with drywall or wood screws, driving the screws into wall studs. Alternatively, if you’d like the headboard to be movable (see note at right), glue the cleat to the backside of the headboard instead of fastening it to the wall.

Measure down from the upper cleat location and make reference marks for the lower wall cleat, roughly centering it on the bottom solid portion, as before. Drill pilot holes through the cleat at the wall stud locations, then drill a deep counterbore into each hole so the screws will reach at least 1½" into the wall studs. Fasten the lower cleat to the wall with screws.

With a helper or two, position the headboard over the cleats, making sure it is centered behind the bed and level across the top. Drill pilot holes, and fasten the headboard to the cleats with one 6d finish nail near each corner of the headboard. Set the nails slightly below the surface with a nail set, then fill the holes with color-matched wood putty or a homemade blend of white glue and sawdust. Touch up the putty with finish, if desired.

Note: To make the headboard movable, you can hang its bottom edge from the lower cleat using two homemade metal clips. Cut two strips of any stiff scrap metal (¾" wide, or so) about 3" long. Use pliers to make two bends in one end of each strip to form a square-cornered “J” that hooks onto the headboard’s bottom edge. Drill a hole through the upper portion of the strip for a mounting screw. Fasten the clips near the ends of the lower mounting cleat, using 1¼" wood screws or drywall screws. Set the headboard into the clips, resting the upper cleat against the wall. The 5-degree angle keeps the headboard in place.

For more contemporary furniture and storage projects, grab your copy of PlyDesign at our affiliate, Amazon.

Excerpted from PlyDesign (c) Philip Schmidt. Project design by Designed by Kathy and Philip Schmidt. Used with permission of Storey Publishing. Photos: (c) Lightbox Images Photography, images by Thomas Cooper

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Eye Candy: 7 Iron Beds for Every Style

by DIY Maven

Eye Candy: 7 Iron Beds for Every Style

There's no middle ground; it seems people love iron beds or don't. I fall in the former category, and although I don't have one, I do like to gather inspiration for the day I can talk Sweetie into loving them as much as I do. Until then, I must live vicariously through others. 

We'll start with a traditional interpretation of the iron bed. This sweet cool blue and white bedroom

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