For those of you who love color as much as I do, then you probably love PANTONE too. (If you're not sure what it is, here ya go). And in my opinion, those swatches really lend themselves to fun DIY projects. So today I'm sharing a quick and easy tutorial for "balloon-dipped" PANTONE vases. Read on to check 'em out.
I'm a plant lover through and through. Plants add visual interest to a space, and they clean the air too. So when I saw the Fryken baskets at IKEA, I knew I had to turn them into a hanging planter set. Not only does it look cool, but it also keeps the plants away from the curious nose of my mischievous dog. So read on find out how you can make your own hanging planter basket set.
The final product is a nice combination of rustic and contemporary, with the bright colored cord paired with the natural sea grass. And it's surprisingly easy to make! Let's get started.
Here's what you'll need for your planter:
- IKEA Fryken basket set
- Acrylic craft paint
- Foam paint brush
- 10' of parachute cord
- Embroidery needle
- 4" piece of thin wire (not pictured)
Begin by painting the bottom of each basket. I mixed up a dark turquoise color, and painted on an angle so that the color would be visible from the side when the baskets were hanging.
Here's a look at the side of the basket. Feel free to use a piece of painters tape to help create a straight line. Let the baskets dry thoroughly.
Now it's time to connect the baskets using parachute cord. You can buy the cord on Amazon or at most craft stores (I bought mine at Michaels). You most likely won't be able to thread your cord through the embroidery needle, so you'll need to fashion a little loop out of wire. To do this, thread the wire through the needle, create a 1 inch opening and then twist the ends together as shown above.
Cut 6 pieces of parachute cord that are 12 inches long each. Thread one piece of cord through your wire loop and push the needle through the top of the largest basket, as shown above. If you have trouble getting the cord through, pull everything back out and use a flat head screwdriver to gently wiggle a small hole in that spot and then try threading it through again.
Once it comes through, pull one end all the way through and tie a knot at the end. Then pull the outside end back out so the knot is positioned on the inside of the basket. Do this for three of the pieces of cord, evenly spacing them around the top of the basket.
Next, use the same process to pull the top of one of the cords through the bottom of the medium sized basket. Tie a knot at the top of that cord. Do the same for the other two cords.
Now repeat the exact same process for the medium basket and attach it to the smallest basket. Adjust the knots slightly if the baskets aren't sitting flat.
Then cut three pieces of cord that are 15 inches long each, and attach those to the top of the smallest basket. Knot the three pieces together at the top as shown above, and hang it from a hook. Your planter set is finished!
You'll want to use plants that are already in plastic containers so you can take them out to water them... if the sea grass baskets get wet repeatedly, they may start to get a bit moldy. For the bottom basket, I used cuttings from another Pothos plant and put them in a plastic container that I found in my recycling bin. I did the same for the Jade plant in the middle, and the top one is an air plant - so no soil needed!
You can customize these to your liking, using colors that match your decor - or you might even consider using different colors for each section if you like a multi-color look.
You could fill the entire thing with air plants, for a lower maintenance option. Just don't forget to water them like I did last time! Spritz them thoroughly in the sink every week or two to keep them looking good.
If you try this project, feel free to share a link to it in the comments section below. Happy crafting everyone!
I love to read magazine and so does my family. Long live the paper subscription! So, I wanted magazine storage for our living room to keep them all in one place. So, let's get to it: how to make a simple and stylish wood and leather magazine rack.
First the research: I am really drawn leather and brass/gold magazine racks like this one.
I was originally going to attempt this with a vintage folding tray table but realized quickly a folding tray table is too tall for magazine rack. My second thought was a luggage rack, but they also weren't the right height or width.
But then! I pulled into a garage sale and found the below clothes drying rack and thought, hmm.... this thing actually might work.
The funny thing is this drying rack (I think) is the cheapest one you can by at a discount store. I got lucky with a garage sale price but I will link to a new option in the materials list.
Here is what you need:
- Wooden clothes drying rack. Here is a great one from Amazon
- leather, vinyl, or upholstery fabric. I chose this faux leather from Joann's
- hot glue gun or sewing machine
- gold spray paint
- hand saw or multi tool
- chain or string
- cutting pliers (optional)
- scissors (not pictured)
Take apart your drying rack and set the aside the dowels. Now, we need to cut it up. There are many ways to do this, but through trial and error (and a few mistakes) this is how I did it:
The bottom half of the rack would become the side pieces of the rack. It is hard to tell in pictures but we cut underneath the grommet at a 90 degree angle. To truly get a 90 degree angle we needed a little more freedom of movement from the accordion rack. To get this we FIRST cut the rack where you see the pink Xs.
After you have made the cuts to give the rack freedom you can adjust the piece of wood you are cutting of to make a nice clean 90 degree cut under the grommet. Cut one side, then flip it over and cut the other side.
I originally tried to keep the grommets since the dowel rods where made to fit in them, but it was hard because the grommets went through both pieces of wood. The dowel rods are made to be smaller where they are to be inserted. I decided I could drill holes in faster time than to figure out how to remove/cut the grommet and sand down the freshly cut dowel rods to fit.
Here is what one side should look like when it is cut. You will need two of these. The middle grommet is your connecting point. Since we cut of the top grommets the distance from the grommet to the end of the wood is not the same on this side. This was actually better for the structure of the magazine rack. Use the longer side to be the base of the magazine rack and the shorter side to be the top. This will allow the leather/fabric of the magazine rack to hang down a little more.
Repeat Steps 1-2 on the opposite side of the drying rack. Make sure both sides are the same length.
You now have two Xs which are the two sides of your magazine rack. Drill holes in each end of one side of the magazine rack. To make sure they match, stack them and drill both at the same time. Then lay the side with drilled holes on top of the side with no holes and mark where the holes should be drilled (not pictured). Drill the holes on the second side of the magazine rack. It is important to measure well so your dowel rods will be level when inserted.
Now it is time to measure the dowel rods. I used a magazine to estimate my length. I wanted it to be a bit larger than the magazine just in case I wanted to store big coffee table books as well.
The length is up to you, but I wanted my magazine rack (the exposed part) to be 17 inches wide. In measuring, I had to take into consideration that I would cut off the sanded ends. I cut off the grommets in Step 2 so I needed both sides of the dowel to be the same thickness. Before measured, I cut these off. (not pictured)
Your two dowel rods will be different lengths due to one being inserted into the inside of the rack and one being inserted into the outside of the rack. I wanted my dowel rods to be inserted all the way through the wood to be flush with the outside of the rack. The depth of my wood was 1/4 inch. The bottom dowel was easy. I needed to cut the dowel 17.5 inches.
The top dowel had to be 1 inch longer because it had to extend the length of two of the .25 inch deep pieces on each side totaling .5 inches more on each side. I cut it 18 inches. [17inches + .5 + .5 = 18 inches]
Summary: Whatever your measurement cut one dowel 1/2 inch longer than the other.
Cut your dowel rods. The picture shows me cutting three rods, but I learned later that you only need to cut two. Use a clamp to tighten them down. I used my multi-tool to cut them down. You could use a hacksaw or chop saw.
To keep the magazine rack from closing you need to secure the sides. I used my snippers to cut an old necklace I had.
I used thumb tacks to secure the chain. Any chain would work or you could also use a small strip of your leather/fabric or string.
To make sure each side opens the same measure where you place the thumb tacks from the grommet.
Insert your dowel rods and secure them with glue. I squeezed a little hot glue in the hole before I inserted the dowel rod.
I added thumbtacks to the outside of my rack where the dowel was showing to get it a more finished look.
Spray paint your magazine rack.
Note: You can spray paint your parts separately and install the finished rack after the leather/fabric part is sewn.
Now, it is time to cut your leather. I couldn't find a large enough piece of cognac leather in the remnant pile at our local leather store so I chose to use vinyl faux leather in a caramel color. I am always amazed at how far vinyl has come in looking like leather. I found mine at Joann Fabric.
Cut the fabric into two pieces. I noticed my inspiration piece had the finished side of the leather on both sides of the magazine rack. If you are using real leather this step is optional. You might like the look of your magazine rack to have the softer side of the leather on the inside. If you want the finished side seen on the outside and inside then cut two pieces. I had to use two pieces because the unfinished side of faux leather is not pretty. Your measurements will depend on the size of your magazine rack. Here are the sizes of the two pieces I cut.
The exposed part of my inserted dowel is 17 inches. I wanted the dowel to have 1/4 inch on each side of exposed dowel. The smaller piece will be cut the exact width of the finished product. You will fold the sizes of the larger piece over this smaller piece.
Place the the two "wrong sides" of the fabric/leather together. Place the smaller piece in the middle. There should be two inches of leather to fold on the top and the bottom. There should be one inch to fold on each side.
Fold the sides in 1/2 inch and sew or glue.
For these next steps you can sew or you can use glue. If you are going to put heavy books in the rack I would suggest sewing. Mine will only hold 3-5 magazines and hot glue/super glue is sturdy enough for this.
Fold the folded side another 1/2 inch to finish off the sides.
Take the top and fold the top side over the dowel rod and glue. I made sure I cut straight lines on my vinyl so I didn't have to fold over twice on the top.
Note: If you have not assembled your magazine rack then this would be where you would place the fabric on the dowel rods and assemble your stand.
You are done! All you need are some magazines.
The magazine rack is quite sturdy and can hold more magazines than shown.
I love how this little project turned out. Who knew it came from an old drying rack!
I love a good repurpose. The drying rack has enough parts to make a couple of these, so I think I'll do a few more!
We love a good IKEA hack around here, and today we have something extra special for you - a double IKEA hack! This tiered serving tray spins, so guests can easily reach that brie that they're so desperate to eat. It uses up less surface area on the table too, by taking advantage of vertical space. Click through to check out the full tutorial.
Fun, right? You can customize the colors too. So let's get started!
Here's what you'll need for your spinning tiered serving tray:
- IKEA Snudda
- IKEA Vildapel (you won't need the accompanying casters)
- (2) 1" diameter dowel rods, 4.5" long each
- Acrylic craft paints
- Wood Glue
Begin by painting the dowel rods your desired color. You may need two coats - let the first coat dry thoroughly before starting the second one.
Next, find the center of the IKEA Snudda Lazy Susan. Place a dollop of wood glue there and place the bottom dowel rod in the glue. Let it dry for a couple of hours so it is secure. Then, find the center of the underside of the Vilapel and glue that to the top of that same dowel rod.
Next, find the center of the top of the Vilapel and glue the top dowel rod to it. Let everything dry overnight. And that's it! One of the easiest double IKEA hacks ever.
A note: I wouldn't recommend putting a big heavy bowl of salsa on the top tier of this serving tray - stick to lighter items just to be safe.
You can get creative with the colors too - metallic might be fun, or even a colorful pattern. Have fun with it!
Save money on expensive pots and planters with this quick and easy project that will conceal any ugly plastic container in about five minutes, for less than $1 a piece.
Using some leftover contact paper, you can whip up some faux metal containers to hide the ugly plastic ones your store-bought houseplants came in.
- Scrap Cardboard
- Copper Contact Paper
- Small Plants or succulents
I've been making a concerted effort lately to remember to recycle as much as possible, and it's been working... we have double the amount of recycling as we do trash lately. And then I got to thinking - there must be all kinds of fun DIYs that I could do using all those empty vessels. Keep reading to check out four easy ones that I tried out.
Looking for a way to create colored glass bottles and mason jars? Why tested two techniques to see which one works best.
A few years back, we profiled a new technique to 'dye' clear glass any color. The original maker included instructions that called for mixing acetone (nail polish remover) with Vitrail glass paint. Since posting the profile of the technique, the original how-to has vanished from the internets. We decided to take our own stab at the technique to see if we could replicate the outcome and devise our own how-to.
With some trial and error, we were able to do it...but not without some surprises.
Before we begin, let's talk about those surprises. The original materials list consisted of clear jars, acetone, and Vitrail glass paint. We tried that glass coloring technique – and we'll reveal the results. However, another option for dying clear glass is using Vitrail Lightening Medium instead of acetone. In the material list listed below, we've included both acetone and the lightening medium. You can decide, after seeing the effect, which you'd rather use to dye glass:
- Clear glass mason jars or bottles to paint
- Plastic straws
- Vitrail glass paint
- Acetone (nail polish remover)
- Vitrail Lightening Medium
We'll start with the original technique, which utilized acetone.
To begin, make sure your jar is completely clean and dry, both inside and outside. Shake the Vitrail paint to mix well. Dip a plastic straw into the paint and dribble paint inside the jar so it touches only the bottom--NOT the sides of the jar. (The amount of paint you put inside the jar will depend upon the size of the jar, of course, but it's better to error on the side of a little too much than too little.)
Using another clean straw, draw up some acetone using the finger-over-the-end-of-the-straw trick. Put in about 1/2 as much acetone as paint. Again, ONLY put the acetone at the very bottom of the jar--not on the sides of the jar.
Don't forget to read Curbly's Bottle Cutter Shoot-Out to find the perfect cutter for your painted bottles and jars!
Looking for more great ideas? We like this book:
Use another straw to mix the acetone and paint. Mix it WELL.
When the paint and acetone are completely mixed, rotate the jar on its side to swirl the paint, thereby painting the inside of the jar.
First surprise. Acetone does NOT mix with the Vitrail. Now, although this was a complete fail, the outcome is really cool. It looks kind of like a static lava lamp.
Now let's try the other technique, this time using the Vitrail Lightening Medium.
Again, make sure your jar is completely clean and dry inside. Shake the Vitrail paint to mix well. Dip a plastic straw into the paint and dribble inside the jar so it touches only the bottom--NOT the sides--of the jar. (To repeate: the amount of paint you put inside the jar will depend upon the size of the jar, but it's better to error on the side of a little too much than too little.)
Using another clean straw, dribble lightening medium into the paint. Remember, ONLY put the lightening medium at the very bottom of the jar--not on the sides of the jar.
Use a straw to mix the lightening medium and paint. Mix it WELL.
When the paint and lightening medium are properly mixed, rotate the jar on its side to swirl the paint, thereby painting the inside of the jar. As you can see from the picture, the lightening medium and paint mix perfectly, as expected. (They are meant to mix after all.) The mixture is much more viscous than the paint/acetone mix, which means the paint will flow slowly, meaning you'll have to rotate slowly to coat the entire inside of the jar.
When the jar is completely coated with paint, prop it up on a couple of straws so the paint will drip out of the jar completely and help it dry faster.
Colored Glass Techniques - Results
Now let's do a side-by-side comparison of the techniques. Acetone technique is on the left and lightening medium technique is on the right. Notice the mottled effect of the of the paint/lightening medium? It's cool, but it's a far cry from the liquid-y finish of the original post. (How the maker achieved the effect, I have no clue. Mineral spirits, maybe? That will require further investigation best saved for a future how-to.)
OKAY, now for the final test. The original tutorial claimed the Vitrail and acetone combo was waterproof. Sadly, it is not. After letting a jar dry for 48 hours, I poured water into it and let it sit for about an hour--a much shorter time than you'd keep flowers in a vase.
When I poured out the water, this is what happened:
Oops. Now, before we dismiss the fixative property of Vitrail, keep in mind that Vitrail glass paint is WATER-RESISTANT, which, technically speaking, means it's "able to resist the penetration of water to some degree but not entirely." That means NO jars that are painted on the INSIDE with either of these techniques using Vitrail glass paint can be used as vases. Sorry folks.
That being said, they'd be lovely for candle holders or simply objets d'art.
Vitrail Glass Paint + Vitrail Lightening Medium=
Vitrail Glass Paint + Acetone=
So there it is. Although we've busted a few myths, we still love the options both these techniques provide. (My favorite...the groovy lava lamp effect!)
I'm always on the hunt for fresh tabletop decor. With spring around the corner, I'm looking for something unique and elegant, and I'm ready to bring the outdoors in. This simple spring candleholder combines all sorts of fun elements like fresh greenery and upcycled glass. I played around with different design options to add a bit more personality to each candle. It's so easy, you can make a few in no time to spruce up your home for any...
Landscaping can be pricey, but there are ways to lessen the expense if you exert a bit of extra effort and some ingenuity. Here are our favorite ways to landscape on a budget.
There's nothing worse then renter-white walls. That dingy, dirty white that's not quite cream but not quite white either. But there's an easy way to fix it - add an accent wall and nobody will notice the rest of the walls! Here are twenty renter-friendly accent wall ideas that won't damage your walls (or they can be easily fixed when you move). Click through to read on.
Zero Damage Accent Wall Ideas
These first few ideas will cause no damage to your apartment walls whatsoever!
1. Washi Tape Polka Dots - Let's start with a crazy easy one... simply place strips of tape on waxed paper and then cut circles out of them! Get the tutorial here. [Photo: Fellow Fellow]
2. Decal Wall - Removable wall decals are another great way to add some personality to a wall. [Photo: Inspired By This]
5. Metallic Tape Accent Wall - There's a great product out there called metalized polyester film tape which can be stuck to the wall in any pattern your heart desires. Check out the tutorial here. [Photo: Design Fixation]
7. Fabric Wall Covering - Believe it or not, you can attach fabric to the wall using starch. Learn how here. [Photo: Apartment Therapy]
Re-Paintable Accent Wall Ideas
These accent walls will need to be painted over before you move out... so worth it though!
10. Layered Stripe Accent Wall Ideas - This eye-catching wall is made simply with paint and tape... so all you'll have to do is paint over it once you move! Get the tutorial here. [Photo: Dream A Little Bigger]
11. Stenciled Wall - This beautiful wall looks like wallpaper, but it's actually made with two different finishes of the same paint color (high gloss and matte). Read more here. [Photo: Kristen F. Davis Designs]
Easily Fixable Ways to Create an Accent Wall
These walls will require a bit of repair before moving out, but nothing more than patching some holes.
14. Plywood Geometric Wall - If you're into woodworking, this could be a fun one for you. Simply pry the wood off when you move and fill the nail holes with spackle. Get the tutorial here. [Photo: Reality Daydream]
15. Ribbon Wall - This one can be done by stretching ribbon in diamond shapes and securing with thumbtacks. [Photo: BHG]
18. Grasscloth Striped Accent wall - Cover beams in grasscloth and nail them to the wall... so pretty! [Photo: Via Homedit]
19. Framed Wallpaper - Frame up large pieces of wallpaper (or fabric, wrapping paper, etc.) and hang them on the wall. [Photo: Inspired By This]
The moment I ran across the Hyllis shelf on IKEA's website, I knew I had to hack it. My dining room was crying out for a shelf upgrade, so I drove down to IKEA immediately and bought three of them. You guys... they're only $15 apiece! My resulting hack has a glamorous vibe with a bit of rustic appeal, and it's super simple to do. Click through to check it out.
So much better, right?! I'm loving the contrast of the gold with the dark stained wood. Let's get started!
Here's what you'll need for this project:
- IKEA Hyllis
- Gold spray paint (I recommend Montana Gold)
- Dark wood stain
- Four pieces of wood, size 10.5 x 23.5 and about 3/4 inch thick
- E6000 Glue
- Rag or scrap of fabric
- Rubber gloves
- At least two C-Clamps (not pictured)
Begin by assembling the Hyllis shelf according to the directions and then spray paint it gold. You'll probably need two thin coats... let it dry thoroughly between coats. And yes, I spray paint in the snow. It's not ideal because the paint dries slower, but sometimes you have to make due!
Be sure to wipe down the shelf thoroughly with a clean rag to remove fingerprints before you paint, and don't forget to paint the undersides of the shelves and the insides of the support pieces.
Next, apply the stain to the four pieces of wood. If you've never used stain before, don't be intimidated - it's surprisingly simple and forgiving! Just be sure to do it in a well-ventilated area and wear gloves and old clothes. Because it is aptly named... it stains.
Let them dry overnight. You don't really have to do the undersides of the boards, but make sure you get the sides and go onto the edges of the undersides a bit (shown below).
Now apply a generous portion of E6000 glue to the underside of the board, especially near the edges, and flip it over onto the Hyllis shelf.
Use C-clamps to ensure that the wood is firmly attached the the shelf. Most wood will be warped slightly, so this step is pretty important. Be sure to place a piece of scrap wood in between the clamp and the stained wood or else you'll end up with a round indentation where the clamp was.
Place one clamp on each side of the shelf, and let the glue dry for several hours. If you only have two clamps, move them to the next shelf and repeat the process. If you have eight clamps, you can do them all at once!
And that's it... you're finished! Now go fill it with pretty knick-knacks. I love the look of it more and more everyday. The shelf we had there before was all wood, and it felt dark and dated. The metal frame of the Hyllis really adds airiness and makes the room feel much more open.
And a quick safety note: be sure to bolt it to the wall, just like you would any tall shelf. There are small holes just below the top shelf that will allow you to do so. And before you call me out for not doing it, don't worry - it's on my to-do list for today!
You could personalize this project by painting the wood a different color... white if you want to go super glam, or a bright color if you want to add some funkiness.
This would look great in any room of the house - I can imagine it in the kitchen with piles of white dishware on the shelves, or in the kids' room with fabric bins for toy storage.
Feel free to leave any questions you have in the comments section below. Happy crafting everyone!
One of the (many) things that deters me from super getting organized is not wanting to spend a ton of money on storage containers and other organizational items. But then it dawned on me - why don't I use things that I already have make some storage containers? So today I'm sharing five of my favorite upcycled organizational DIYs that you can make from things you probably already have lying around the house.
1. Egg Carton Jewelry Storage - For this project, simply spray paint the outside of the plastic type of egg carton. I cut mine into two pieces and painted each one a different color. Easy peasy!
2. Plastic Bag Dispenser - This one is made out of a disinfecting wipe container. Cut the label off, spray paint the top, wrap contact paper around the outside and then stuff your plastic bags inside. You'll never have a mess of bags again!
3. Salsa Jar Canisters - For these apothecary style jars, I spray painted the tops of empty salsa jars and then glued knobs to the top using E6000 glue. These are great for holding bathroom items like I've done, or also things like beads or other crafting supplies.
4. Contact Paper Storage Box - This catch-all storage box is simply a shoe box covered with marble contact paper. You could also cover it in wrapping paper, gluing it to the box with Mod Podge.
5. Mason Jar String Organizer - For this one, remove the inside part of the mason jar cap and replace it with decorative card stock of the same size and shape. Punch a hold in the center before you screw it on, and thread the string through the hole. No more runaway string or yarn!
If you're like me, you probably have a craft closet full of leftover supplies from past projects... yarn scraps, small pieces of fabric and lots of random bits of paper. So today we're going to share ten genius projects that will help you use up those scraps - which will also help you get your space organized! Read on to check them out.
Who else is in need of some help in the storage department? I know I am, so today we're sharing some attractive DIY storage projects... because it's way easier to get yourself organized when you have cute storage, right?!
4. If you like to crochet, then this basket might be the perfect project for you. Watch the video tutorial here. [Photo: All Crafts Channel]
It you've been a Curbly reader for a while, then you probably know that we love IKEA hacks. And if you're new around here, then you'll just have to take my word for it - we love IKEA hacks. Today we have a new one for you, and it's super easy. Just grab a Kubbis coat rack and you'll have a fun photo display in no time.
I don't know about you, but storage is one thing that I can never get enough of. Especially cute storage. So today I'm sharing a project with you that I made to create some mobile storage for my home office. It's a stacking, rolling storage cart that can hold all of those odds and ends that you just don't know what to do with.
With New Year's Eve right around the corner, I have metallics on the brain... and apparently other people do too, because there are an awful lot of silver and gold DIY projects floating around the internet these days. So today I'm sharing ten of my favorite metallic DIYs for your home. Read on to check them out.
Still working on wrapping holiday gifts? Or maybe you aren't finished shopping yet? Today we have some gift wrapping ideas that are a little outside the box - literally and figuratively. We're sharing ten creative alternatives to basic, store-bought gift wrap... which will in turn save you some money, and be a little friendlier to the environment. Keep reading to check them out!
Some of the most unique Christmas decor is waiting to be found at your local thrift store. If you are not done Christmas decorating, or you are decorating for a Christmas get-together, here are some Christmas decorating ideas using re-purposed thrift store items.
This holiday season, a group of the Curbly writers decided to team up and each of us created a simple and stylish new Christmas ornament. We're calling it the "Curbly Ornament Challenge" but there's not much competition involved...just a lot of fun, seasonal crafting. See all of the ornaments here.
During the busy holiday season there's always less time for complicated DIYs, so simple down-and-dirty projects are much more feasible. In that vein, today we're sharing a fun tutorial which will show you how to create a gold Christmas ornament using thumb tacks! Click through to check it out.