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Step-by-Step Upholstered Cushion for Everywhere in Your Home

By ModHomeEcTeacher

created on: 04/02/08

Kitchen chairs, bar stools, porch furniture, patio furniture, window seats, sofas, chairs, floor pillows, dog beds, doll beds, cat beds, and that's all I can think of, this tutorial will show you step-by-step how to make your own boxed and corded cushions.

You can ditch the cord for a more modern look. 

Have at it this Spring with the beautiful large graphic print fabrics available for the interior and the new outdoor fabrics--to die for!

Let's get started-

what you need:

sewing machine

zipper foot

fabric

foam for cushion

scissors

batting

stuffing

zipper

what you do:

1. using old cushion cover, foam cushion, template or measurements, trace cushion pattern on wrong side of doubled fabric

created on: 04/02/08

2. cut out boxing long enough to go around cushion front and two short sides, the back piece will be the zipper piece

created on: 04/02/08

This cushion measured 40" x 30" x 5".  The front piece of boxing was cut from a width of fabric measureing 54" x 6".   The front piece wrapped around the sides 7" on each side.  1/2" will be lost to a seam allowance on each side.  Two additional pieces measuring 25" x 6" were stitched on both short ends of the front boxing piece.  It's better to have a little extra than not enough.

3. stitch both short boxing strips to either end of the front boxing

4. stitch zipper boxing to one end of zipper boxing

created on: 04/02/08 

created on: 04/02/08

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5. cut notches to mark center points of top and bottom of cushion cover, center of long boxing piece and center of zipper piece as guides when pinning and sewing pieces together

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6. with raw edge of cording lip lined up with raw edge of cushion top piece, starting in middle of one long side, stitch cording on top piece all the way around

7. at corners, snip lip of cording to allow cording to turn corner, keep stitching close to cording

8. when coming around to start point, cut cording at a point approximately two inches beyond start of stitched down cording

9. open stitching up about 1 1/2 inches, snip off cording at the point where it butts up to other cording end

10. fold fabric back and under, encasing other end of cord and stitch down

TIP:   See: Curbly's How-To Reupholster Round Bar Stools for a photo of finishing the cord ends

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11. stitch cording to both top and bottom pieces

12. aligning notches on cushion top piece and long boxing piece, pin boxing to cushion top, right side to right side

13. match notch on zipper boxing piece to notch on back of cushion top, pin corners to corners, pin all the way around and stitch

created on: 04/02/08

created on: 04/02/08

 TIP: Always stitch with the smaller piece placed on top of the larger piece

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14. anticipating where the open boxing end will meet the open zipper boxing end, pin and stitch together so that boxing is continuous all the way around the cushioncreated on: 04/02/08

15. pin the cushion bottom piece exactly the same way as the top, matching notches and corners to keep cushion straight

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16. turn right side out

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17. get foam ready to stuff in to cushion cover

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18. scrunching and wrestling with the foam cushion, insert it into cushion cover

19. work the foam around, adjusting cushion cover to make the cushion look uniform and smooth

20. use extra stuffing in corners to fill out cushion (every upholsterer does this)

created on: 04/02/08

21. zip up the back and enjoy your new skill

TIP:  Sometimes there is a little extra between the zippe and the foam, in that case, cut a strip of batting to fill in the extra space. 

Start fabric shopping for all the new cushions you will make this Spring.

It gets easier every time you do it.

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April 02, 2008
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Modgal_thumb

ModHomeEcTeacher's blog (253 posts)

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Modgal_thumb

ModHomeEcTeacher

April 04, 2008

The front piece of boxing is 54" long, the front of the cushion is 40" long so I had fourteen inches left over.  Divide that by 2 and seven inches were left over for each side.  The zipper is also 40" and goes across the whole back of the cushion.  If your cushion is shorter, you'll have more inches to wrap around.  Get it?  Good luck and you'll be so proud.

Fallcolours0001_thumb

yeye_joijoi

April 04, 2008

Thanks for the tips. I'm just going through all the steps and trying to translate the measurments for my own cushions. Is there a reason you wrapped the front around 7" on each side? I mean, how did you determine the number value? Or is it just a good starting point aand not really based on any ratio necessarily? Also --- the backpiece is the same length as the front?

Modgal_thumb

ModHomeEcTeacher

April 04, 2008

I personally don't like cording either.  This was for my nephew's room and it needed some contrast.

What you can do is leave the piping out, just stitch the boxing to the cushion top (and then to the bottom) To make it look really professional, after you stitch the boxing to the cushion top and bottom, turn your cushion cover right side out and do a TOPSTITCH 1/4" away from the seam, on the TOP of the cushion, making sure the seam allowance underneath is folded towards the top, so that your topstitching will "catch" when you are sewing on the top.  Stitching that seam allowance in place by doing the topstitch gives it a nice, professional and modern look--I love it.  Be sure to keep your stitching really straight--You'll love it too!!!  Add a comment if you get stuck.

Fallcolours0001_thumb

yeye_joijoi

April 04, 2008

Well I know what I'm doing this weekend..... though I'm pretty scared!!

Is there some kind of alternative to the piping? I really find it tacky.... but I see that it helps keep the form. Hmm....

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