Restoring a Steelcase Desk?
By AutumnHeartAfter seeing the beautiful retro furniture available on RetroOffice.com, I convinced my husband that we should update our office desk with an old Steelcase model (he's a big Superman fan, and the office is Superman themed, so we're going for a mix of retro-comic style.)
We lucked out, and found an old Steelcase desk for FREE off Craigslist. Picked the monster up, got it home, and have been staring at it ever since.
It came from an old art studio, so right now it's covered in a layer of white spray-paint and decoupaged artwork, which I'm going to use a combination of paint remover and sandpaper to gradually strip / sand down to the underlying steel.
Eventually we want the entire desk to have a polished "chrome" finish to it, but we're not sure of the best way to get it there. Once we get it down to the underlying steel, should we basecoat, "chrome" paint and clear topcoat? (If so -- any brand suggestions?) Or will a chrome paintjob look streaky and uneven.
Anyone have any suggestions or ideas?
(As a longshot aside -- anyone know how to find out the year of manufacture? I can't find the original sticker that should be on it, and I know there should be a "stamp" somewhere, but I don't know where.)
[ Edit: I fixed the URL above. Thanks! ]

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Wes
Recently I picked up two (300lbs) used, Russ Bassett Co., multi-media filing storage cabinets, as well as one small two drawer filing cabinet. So far, the process I've come up with is:
1. heavy duty paint and rust stripper. It's basically painted on & in under 10min, it changes color as it bubbles up - then you scrape with a sharp edged putty knife & it lifts right off. (oddly - the stuff has a consistency like whipped toothpaste). Bets to remove all external hardware (knobs, handles, etc) before you start.
2. power dril and sanding gear. I purchased a 2" wire brush cup, a couple 5", padded sadning disk attachemnts for the drill, adhesive back sanding disks (40grit, 100grit, and 200 grit. Use the wire cup brush on the hard to get spots that tear the sanding pads& any spots the paint stipper didn't get. (note: it's a good idea to follow a repeated pattern in your sanding technique).
3. Three to four cans of high gloss, spray polyurethane clear coat. If you have to break the work up over multiple days, Since rust can start appearing quickly in a humid climate, I found it's a good idea to put a single coat over the area you've worked on and sand it off later when you continue working. Generally have to sand these pieces several times, with finer grit each time, but rust seems to require deeping sanding each time. I put multiple thin coats, sprayed in rows & columns to overlap, but very careful not to get anywhere near enought to run. buff down with drill & polishing disk once it's completely dry and repeat till you get a good depth of gloss.
So - I'm sure there's other ways of doing this, but this was what worked for me & produced some great results. Will upload some photos to thinglink.com account today. Hope that's helpful~
Swankymode
Caya123
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